Golden Retriever Puppy Checklist

Before They Arrive

What to Have Ready Before Your Puppy Comes Home

The first 48 hours with a new puppy are chaotic regardless of how prepared you are. The goal of this checklist isn't to eliminate the chaos — it's to make sure you're not running to a pet store at 11pm because you forgot something basic.

This list is specific to Golden Retrievers — a large breed that sheds heavily, mouths everything, and grows from 10 lbs to 70 lbs faster than you expect.

The Full List

Supplies Checklist

Containment & Sleep

• Large crate with divider — buy adult size from day one; the divider makes it puppy-sized now
• Durable dog bed — expect it to get chewed; don't buy expensive until they're past the chewing phase (~12 months)
• X-pen or baby gates — essential for controlling puppy access to the house during the first months

Feeding

• Stainless steel bowls (2) — one for food, one for water; easier to clean than plastic, don't harbor bacteria
• Large-breed puppy food — ask your breeder what they've been feeding; transition slowly over 7–10 days to avoid stomach upset
• Slow feeder bowl — Goldens eat fast; a slow feeder reduces bloat risk from day one

Collar, Leash & ID

• Flat collar — sized for a puppy neck (usually 10–14 inches); you'll replace this within weeks as they grow
• 6-foot leash — standard for training; avoid retractable leashes for puppies
• ID tag — with your phone number; have this ready before the puppy arrives, not after
• Harness (optional) — useful once they start pulling; wait until 12–16 weeks when sizing stabilizes

Grooming

• Slicker brush — start brushing from week one so they get used to it before the adult coat comes in
• Puppy shampoo — gentle formula; you'll bathe them more often than you expect in the first months
• Ear cleaning solution — floppy ears trap moisture; weekly checks start immediately
• Nail clippers or grinder — start handling paws from day one even if you're not trimming yet

Toys

• Kong (medium/large) — freeze with peanut butter or kibble; invaluable for crate training and settling
• Rope toy — durable; doubles as tug and fetch toy
• Nylabone or bully stick — for teething; reduces furniture chewing significantly
• Soft plush toy — they will destroy it, but puppies need something to carry around

Health & Safety

• Vet appointment booked — within the first 3 days; confirm vaccine records from breeder
• Pet insurance applied for — before the first vet visit, not after
• Enzyme cleaner — for accidents; regular cleaners don't remove the scent that draws puppies back to the same spot
• Puppy-proofed space — electrical cords secured, toxic plants removed, small objects off the floor

First Week

The First Week Plan

Day 1–2: Keep It Calm

Resist the urge to show the puppy everything immediately. Let them explore one room at a time. Keep the household quieter than normal. The first night in a crate will likely involve crying — this is normal and it passes within 3–5 nights if you're consistent.

Day 3: First Vet Visit

Bring all health records from the breeder. Confirm the vaccine schedule. Ask about flea/tick/heartworm prevention appropriate for their current age. This is also when you confirm microchip registration if the breeder already chipped them.

Week 1: Establish the Routine

Puppies learn from pattern. The routine you establish in week one becomes the baseline. Start as you mean to go on:

• Take them outside immediately after waking, after eating, and after play
• Use the crate for naps and night — don't start with free roam and restrict later
• Begin name recognition and sit on day one — Goldens respond fast
• Handle paws, ears, and mouth daily even when not grooming; this builds tolerance for vet exams

The One Thing Most New Owners Get Wrong

They let the puppy sleep in the bed on night one because the crate crying feels cruel. Then a month later they have a 25-lb puppy who won't sleep anywhere else and the transition to the crate is 10x harder. Decide where the dog is sleeping long-term before night one and start there.