Keeshond Grooming Guide

The Keeshond Coat

Understanding the Keeshond Double Coat — and Why It Should Never Be Shaved

The Keeshond's coat is spectacular — a dense, profuse silver and black double coat that forms the characteristic lion's mane ruff around the neck, thick "trousers" on the hindquarters, and the distinctive spectacle markings around the eyes. Managing it well means two things above all else: consistent brushing year-round, and never shaving.

Why You Should NEVER Shave a Keeshond

This is not a preference — it is the most important rule of double-coat care. The double coat is a thermoregulation system, not a heat generator. It insulates in both directions: the undercoat traps warm air in winter and creates an insulating barrier against external heat in summer. Shaving removes this system and exposes the skin directly to the elements.

The consequences of shaving a double-coated breed:

• Disrupts the structure of the outer coat and undercoat, which may never grow back correctly
• Impairs the dog's ability to regulate temperature in both heat and cold
• Can cause "post-clipping alopecia" — permanent patchy or altered regrowth in some dogs
• Exposes skin to sunburn that the coat previously protected against

If a Keeshond seems hot, provide shade, cool water, and airflow. Do not shave. If a vet, groomer, or well-meaning neighbor suggests shaving to "keep the dog cool," decline firmly.

Grooming Tools You'll Need

• Undercoat rake — the primary tool; reaches through the outer coat to remove loose undercoat
• Slicker brush — for finishing the outer coat and surface work
• Wide-tooth steel comb — checking for remaining tangles, particularly in the ruff and trousers
• Deshedding tool (Furminator or similar) — highly effective during coat blows for removing large volumes of loose undercoat
• High-velocity pet dryer — strongly recommended for coat blow season; dramatically reduces the blow duration
• Dog-safe shampoo and conditioner

Regular Routine

Weekly and Seasonal Grooming Routine

Weekly (Normal Periods)

• Full brush with undercoat rake — work section by section, starting at the neck ruff and moving toward the tail, then the hindquarters and trousers, then legs
• Follow with slicker brush to smooth the outer coat
• Comb through the ruff and trousers — these are the densest areas and where mats are most likely to form if brushing is inconsistent
• Gentle cleaning of the eye area: wipe the area around the eye corners and the spectacle marking region with a damp cloth to remove any dried discharge or debris. The spectacle markings make debris more visible; keep the area clean for both appearance and eye health
• Check ears for odor or debris; the pendant ear shape reduces airflow and moisture can accumulate
• Trim paw pad hair between the pads if it's becoming long enough to cause slipping on smooth floors

Monthly

• Bathe every 6–8 weeks or when genuinely dirty. Use a dog shampoo and conditioner appropriate for dense double coats
• Drying is critical: the Keeshond's undercoat is dense enough to stay damp for hours after bathing if not dried properly. Towel dry, then use a high-velocity dryer to blow out the undercoat while working through the coat with the rake or slicker brush. Air drying alone risks hot spots (moist dermatitis) and a coat that doesn't lie correctly
• Trim nails monthly — or more often if they're long enough to click on hard floors

Coat Blow Management (Twice Per Year)

The Keeshond sheds its undercoat in two major blows per year — typically spring and fall — that last 2–4 weeks each. During these periods:

• Daily brushing with the undercoat rake is required — the volume of loose undercoat is genuinely surprising if you haven't experienced it
• The most effective approach: a thorough deshedding bath (soak, shampoo, conditioner, thorough rinse) followed by blow-out with a high-velocity dryer. This removes the majority of loose undercoat in one session and significantly shortens the blow period
• Many owners find a single good deshedding bath-and-dry at the start of each blow handles most of the coat release, with daily raking for the following 1–2 weeks finishing the process
• Expect to vacuum more frequently; a lint roller becomes a household fixture

Spectacle Care and Practical Tips

Eye Area Care and Grooming a People-Oriented Dog

The Spectacle Markings: Care and Preservation

The distinctive dark shading lines from the eye corners to the ears — the spectacle markings that make the Keeshond instantly recognizable — are a natural coat coloration, not something that can be maintained or altered by grooming. What grooming does affect is the area around and beneath the markings:

• Gently wipe the inner corner of each eye daily with a damp cloth to remove any discharge. Tear staining is less dramatic than in breeds like Lhasa Apsos, but routine wiping prevents accumulation
• The spectacle area shading can look best when the coat around it is well-brushed and lying flat — consistent grooming maintains the correct coat direction that showcases the markings
• Don't use grooming products (whitening shampoos, bleaching agents) on the spectacle area — these are natural markings, and trying to alter them damages the coat

Grooming a Social Breed

Keeshonds are people-oriented, social dogs that generally accept grooming well when accustomed to it from puppyhood. Unlike more independent or guardian breeds, a Keeshond that was handled consistently from puppyhood is usually a cooperative grooming subject.

• Start grooming handling from day one — brush for 5 minutes with treats, build to full sessions over weeks
• Use grooming time as bonding time — the Keeshond's social nature means grooming can become a positive routine rather than a chore for either party
• Non-slip mat on the grooming surface; most dogs are calmer when they feel stable underfoot
• If the dog becomes wiggly or uncooperative, end the session on a successful note (a simple sit + treat) rather than forcing completion — come back and finish later

Managing the Ruff and Trousers

The ruff (the thick mane around the neck and chest) and the trousers (the thick feathering on the hindquarters and rear legs) are the densest, most mat-prone areas. When brushing, part the ruff and work from the skin outward — don't just brush over the surface. The same applies to the trousers. A wide-tooth comb drawn through after brushing tells you whether you've actually gotten through to the skin or only cleared the surface layer.