Whippet Puppy Checklist

Before They Arrive

What to Have Ready Before Your Whippet Puppy Comes Home

Whippet puppies are gentle, curious, and surprisingly adaptable for a breed with their speed and sensitivity. They settle into new homes readily if the transition is handled calmly — but there are a few things specific to sighthounds that most general puppy checklists don't cover, and skipping them causes problems in week one.

This checklist covers the standard puppy setup plus the Whippet-specific items: the right collar (standard flat collars don't work safely for this breed), cold-weather gear, a comfortable sleeping surface, and what your vet needs to know before any procedure. Get these right from day one and the first week is genuinely calm.

The Full List

Supplies Checklist

Containment & Sleep

• Medium crate with divider and padded liner — Whippets have zero fat cushioning between bone and hard surfaces; a flat crate floor is genuinely uncomfortable for them; a good liner matters
• Soft, supportive dog bed — invest in this from day one; a Whippet who sleeps on a poor surface is an uncomfortable Whippet; orthopedic or memory foam holds up well
• Blanket for the crate — Whippets burrow and feel more secure with something to nestle under; a fleece blanket in the crate helps with settling on night one
• Baby gates or x-pen — to manage the puppy's access to the house before recall and manners are established

Collar & Leash — Sighthound-Specific

• Martingale collar — the correct collar for any sighthound; Whippets' necks are wider than their heads, so a flat collar can slip off when they back up or spook; a martingale tightens to a safe limit and cannot slip; measure the neck carefully and size up if between sizes
• 6-foot leash — standard for training; retractable leashes are not appropriate for a breed with strong prey drive
• ID tag — engraved with your phone number; have it before the puppy arrives; Whippets are fast enough that a 10-second distraction can turn into a serious situation if they slip a collar
• Harness (optional) — a well-fitted harness is an alternative to the martingale; either works; avoid chest-only clip harnesses that restrict shoulder movement

Cold-Weather Gear

• Dog coat (if in a cool/cold climate) — Whippets have no undercoat and minimal body fat; this is functional, not fashion; buy sighthound-specific sizing for the correct fit over a deep chest and narrow waist; measure back length and chest girth before ordering
• Lightweight layer for cool mornings — even if you're not in a cold climate, early mornings and late evenings in autumn can be chilly enough for a Whippet to benefit from a layer

Feeding

• Stainless steel bowls (2) — appropriate size for a medium breed puppy
• Medium-breed puppy food — continue whatever the breeder has been feeding initially; transition slowly after 2 weeks to avoid stomach upset

Grooming (Minimal)

• Rubber grooming mitt — the only coat tool you need; use it weekly; also makes a good bonding activity from day one
• Gentle puppy shampoo — Whippets are low-odor dogs but puppies manage to get into things
• Nail clippers — Whippet nails grow quickly; start handling paws daily from week one

Toys

• Soft plush toys — Whippets are gentle mouthers; they love carrying soft toys rather than destroying them
• Kong (medium) — freeze-stuffed for crate settling
• Flirt pole — triggers the natural sighthound chase instinct in a controlled way; useful for indoor exercise and mental engagement

Health & Safety

• Vet appointment booked — within the first 3 days; bring all breeder health records
• "Sighthound" note in vet records — your first job at the vet is confirming this is documented prominently for anesthesia awareness
• Pet insurance applied for — before the first vet visit
• Enzyme cleaner — for housetraining accidents

First Week

The First Week Plan and Common Mistakes

Day 1–2: Quiet Introduction

Whippets are emotionally sensitive dogs. A first day overwhelmed with noise, new people, and too many stimuli creates anxiety that can take days to resolve. Keep day one calm — one quiet room, two or three familiar people maximum, low activity level. Let the puppy approach and explore at their own pace. The crate with a warm blanket and a soft toy from the breeder (ask for something with the litter's scent) helps the first night.

Day 3: First Vet Visit

The single most important thing to do at this visit: confirm "sighthound" is documented prominently in the medical record with a note about anesthesia protocol. This takes 30 seconds and could matter enormously in an emergency. Confirm the vaccine schedule, discuss flea/tick/heartworm prevention (some products are not recommended for sighthounds — your vet should guide this), and bring all health documentation from the breeder.

Week 1: Routine Over Excitement

• Consistent outdoor trips after waking, after meals, and after play — housetraining is built on pattern
• Crate for all unsupervised time and nights from day one — Whippets who get early freedom are harder to crate train later
• Keep training sessions gentle and upbeat — short (5 minutes), positive, no repetitive drilling; Whippets shut down under pressure
• Use the rubber grooming mitt daily even though the puppy coat needs no grooming — it builds handling tolerance and is a good bonding activity
• Practice putting on and taking off the martingale collar daily so the puppy is comfortable with it before outdoor walks begin

The Mistake New Whippet Owners Make Most Often

Using a flat collar instead of a martingale for walks in the first weeks, because they "don't know about martingales yet" and just grab whatever collar came in the puppy kit. A Whippet who spooks or spots a squirrel can back out of a flat collar in under a second. This happens on week-two walks to unprepared owners. Have the martingale before the puppy arrives, not after.